Return to Kampong Sedaka and Kampong Sungai Bujor in Kedah State, Malaysia

In 1981-82, I was a college exchange student in Malaysia where I attended the University Sains Malaysia (USM) on Penang island for an academic year. My home college was the University of Minnesota in Minneapolis-St. Paul, where I majored in Anthropology. At USM, my academic goal was to complete my senior research project and so I asked for help in defining an area where I could commute to easily and also spend time absorbing the customs of a rural Malay village. The community I was eventually matched with was located on mainland west Malaysia. So every week for about five months, I rode my Yamaha 100 cc motorcycle out to visit the villages of Kampong Sungai Bujor and Kampong Sedaka, in the district of Yan, in Kedah state, Malaysia. (“Kampong” in the Malay language means Village)

.Kedah is known as the “rice bowl” of Malaysia and it accounts for nearly half of all the rice produced in Malaysia.  Nearly 75% of the people in Kedah are Malays, who are Muslim by law and custom, and who primarily speak the Malay language.  My language skills back then were sufficient enough to carry on a simple conversation. Being that my research project focused on rice production, I followed my contacts around the village and talked to people about how they produced rice. My time in the village coincided with the early days of the introduction of mechanized Rice Harvesters as well as the broader use of chemical fertilizers. The new technology made rice production more efficient but it also significantly reduced the need for manual labor. While the fertilizer increased yields, residents noted a decrease in padi fish they were accustomed to include in their diet.

On January 18 -19 this year, I returned to visit the villages of Kampong Sedaka and Sungai Bujor to see how things may have changed and to see the places I stayed at. I was brought there on one of the days by Mr. Masri Abdullah, my former dormitory mate at USM and a member of the Malay family in Sedaka whom I had lived with in 1981-82. Mr. Masri grew up Sedaka, and had suggested his village as a place where I could stay when I was searching for a fieldwork area. Mr. Zakaria was an older brother of Mr. Masri and he was my primary contact for learning about rice production along with their father, Mr. Abdullah. During my trips to Kedah, I slept at the home of Zakaria’s parents-in-law whose grown children had moved out of the family home. I addressed Zakaria’s elderly parents-in-law as Pak and Mak Haji. In Malaysia, the honorific Haji (for men) and Hajjah (for women) are applied to people who have performed the mandatory Muslim pilgrimage to Mecca, Saudi Arabia. On this return visit, I learned that Mr. Zakaria Abdullah had passed away in 2021 and his children are pursuing careers in other towns in Malaysia. Also, the villages have more houses, the roads have been widened and rice harvesters are more evident on the rice fields. Two of Mr. Abdullah’s children still live on the land of their family home in Sedaka. While Pak and Mak Haji’s son, also named Zakaria, now resides in the family home in Kampong Sungai Bugor. The locals of Kampong Sedaka and Kampong Sungai Bujor remain as welcoming and warm as forty years ago. 

The rest of this blog post shows photos from 1981 / 82 and some photos from my visit in January 2023. 

Photos taken in 1981, 1982 and 1985.

Mr. Abdullah and Che Som Mahmud’s family at a gathering in 1985 in front of their home in Kampong Sedaka. My main contact, Zakaria Abdullah is on the far right. My dorm mate, Masri is second from the right with the mustache, Abdullah is in the back / left side of the photo with the white hat. His wife, Che Som Mahmud is the elderly woman in the center of the family photo. The rest of the people in the photo are Abdullah and Che Som Mahmud’s children or grandchildren.

1981 photo - Zakaria Abdullah in front of his house in Kampong Sungai Bujor. (The house no longer exists).

1981 photo - Abdullah enjoying fried fish and a fish curry with okra and rice in his home in Kampong Sedaka.

1981 photo of Pak and Mak Haji - in their home in Kampong Sungai Bujor, with their grandson, Muhammad Nizam (Zakaria’s son).

1981 Photo - Me - in front of my bed, with grass mat and mosquito netting. This photo was taken in Pak and Mak Haji’s house in Kampong Sungai Bujor.

1981 Photo - Zakaria preparing rice field for planting. He used a water buffalo to pull his tiller.

1981 photo - team of local workers (all female) transplanting rice seedlings.

Early 1982 photo - Che Som Mahmud, Abdullah’s wife. She was preparing harvested rice for drying.

Early 1982 photo - Me - offering to help with husking rice

Photos from January 2023

2023 photo - Mr. Abdullah and Che Som Mahmud family’s house in Kampong Sedaka. This is the same house in the family photo above from 1985.

2023 photo - On the left - Bashariah Abdullah (daughter of Abdullah and Che Som Mahmud), myself and Masri at the family home in Kampong, Sedaka. Bashariah Abdullah is currently living in the family home.

2023 photo - Pak and Mak Haji’s house. Pak Haji son, Zakaria, currently lives there. This is the home where I slept in 1981 (it has been renovated and so I could not recognize it).

2023 photo - Zakaria (Pak Haji’s son), myself and Masri at Pak & Mak Haji’s family house in Kampong Sungai Bujor.

2023 - Rice fields - view rice fields behind Abdullah’s family home in Sedaka. These are the same fields where Che Som Mahmud prepared the rice for drying in 1982 photo above.

2023 Photo - Rice fields near Sedaka - women cutting rice that will be used for seed planting in the coming year.