Thaipusam is a Hindu festival of prayers and penance. It is dedicated to Hindu god Lord Murugan who has millions of followers in southern India. There are many gods and goddesses in Hinduism and Thaipusam is widely celebrated in Tamil Nadu in south India, Sri Lanka and South East Asian communities with heavy concentrations of Tamil speakers.
Perhaps no where is Thaipusam a more exhilarating festival than in Malaysia. It is in the cities of Penang and Kuala Lumpur where the glory of Thaipusam is manifested at its peak. At the start of every new year in Malaysia, Hindu Tamils express their devotion to Lord Murugan with riotous color, cacophonous music and uninhibited joy. For these Hindu devotees, Thaipusam marks the end of a fasting period to fulfill the vows they have made to Lord Murugan.
The largest Thaipusam festival in Malaysia takes place at Batu Caves near Kuala Lumpur where it has been celebrated annually since the 1890s. More than a million people visit the temple complex within the limestone caves over several days prior to Thaipusam. On Thaipusam day, thousands of devotees, their family and friends, musicians and others are in procession from dawn until late morning.
Thaipusam is an intense, exciting and heart-pounding experience for most observers. Its explosion of color, unfamiliar sights of pierced bodies, loud sounds and strong fragrances can overwhelm the senses. Many devotees of Lord Murugan carry a kavadi which is a heavy frame, usually circular, on their shoulders. The kavadi signifies the ceremonial burdens of the devotees. They are usually decorated with peacock feathers, flowers and streamers. Most kavadi bearers also have their bodies or cheeks pierced. Body piercings are done with spikes, hooks, or small lances or spears called Vel in Tamil. Often, devotees also attach limes or miniature pots on their backs and these are strung to the hooks and chains of the kavadi.
Some devotees, particularly women, carry a milk pot as their ceremonial burden. Others shave their heads. Devotees who had prayed for a child often give thanks to Lord Murugan by carrying their new baby up to the temple in a sling attached to several stalks of sugar cane.
Some devotees fall into trance as demonstrated by laughing, crying, grunting or shrieking as they carry out their devotion to Lord Murugan. Professional musicians and drummers accompany devotees as they dance and chant during the hours-long procession. Supporters of the devotees usually chant “Vel, vel Muraga” (Glory to Muraga) in unison along with the pounding drums, shrill flutes and blaring trumpets.
The Thaipusam procession of devotees, musicians and others walk and dance on the roads near the Batu Caves complex and then enter the main gates. There the devotees continue their prayers while chanting, singing and dancing with their milk pots or kavadis. Later, devotees walk up the 272 colorful steps into the limestone caves to the temple. They bypass a giant statue of Lord Murugan along the way up. At the temple, devotees finally unload their ceremonial burdens. Those with milk pots empty the contents and bearers of kavadi take off these heavy frames. Their annual devotional journey to Lord Murugan has ended and many are jubilant even as their bodies may be tired and even battered.